Free Crochet Cardigan - Any Time Cardigan
The Any Time Cardigan is a seamless top-down round yoke cardigan.
I love building versatility into my designs so you can get the most wear out of them, and there’s nothing more versatile than a good cardi!
Cropped to finish just above the hips, you can pair this with your favourite jeans or wear it over a dress, buttoned up or left open. With its close fit, you can layer it over a tank top on summer evenings and still have room to wear a jacket or coat on top in cooler climates.
ABOUT OUR DESIGNER
Based from her home in Cambridge, UK, Michelle, aka Dora, designs practical, modern crochet garments and accessories, and contemporary homeware patterns. All made with a hint of whimsy, and a splash of colour here and there. Her aim is to dispel the myth that only advanced crocheters can make their own wardrobe. Crochet wearables are for everyone and Dora wants to help you build the confidence to start that journey. She started the Dora Does blog, ‘Doralosophy’, in 2017 to share patterns and record her journey as a crochet designer. It looks at the fundamentals of crochet and crochet design, serving as a jargon-free resource for crocheters of all levels. Dora also shares crochet goodness via the WiP Tip, a weekly email bulletin, packed with crochet tips and tricks, updates, readers’ makes and subscriber offers.
Dora Does offers a space to discuss all things crochet, including the benefits it can have on mental wellbeing, confidence and personal growth, something Dora is particularly interested in. She is a strong advocate for life-long learning and believes that we are all works in progress!
Follow Michelle
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SUPPLIES
Hook: 4mm Furls Streamline crochet hook, or size needed to meet gauge
Yarn: 6(6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls Furls Whims Merino DK in Pink, 50% Superwash Merino, 50% Nylon, 100g ball = 196yds / 180m
See measurements table for approximate quantities by size
Other:
5 x 20mm buttons
5 x Stitch markers (to mark out buttonholes)
Yarn needle & scissors
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished size
The Any Time Cardigan is a fairly cozy fit with around 6cm of positive ease around the chest and more closely fitting sleeves. If you prefer a more relaxed fit, you may wish to go up a size.
The body length, which drops to the top of the hips, can easily be adjusted by changing the number of body rows worked. This will impact yarn requirements.
Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given in the table below to help you in choosing the correct size.
Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in brackets, i.e.; XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) sts or Rows / Rounds.
The button band measures 3cm wide on each side and the hem and cuffs measure around 1cm deep for all sizes.
The item you see pictured is a size S worn by Dora who is a US sise 4-6 *UK size 8-10), and 5ft 1in tall.
Gauge
16 sts and 14 rows in 10cm of extended single crochet (esc - see special stitches) using a 4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Make a 15cm square gauge swatch using extended single crochet in order to check your gauge.
Abbreviations used (UK Equivalent in Brackets)
ch = chain
dec – decrease (denotes decrease round)
esc = extended single crochet (UK extended double crochet) - see special stitches
esc2tog = extended single crochet 2 together (UK extended double crochet 2 together) - see special stitches
fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double crochet) - see special stitches
FLO = front loop only
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
sk = skip (UK miss)
sp = space
ss = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)
Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base stitch/chain for the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the stitch. To start the next stitch, insert the hook into the ‘v’ of the base stitch, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat from * for required number of sts.
Modification: This technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches given plus 1, then work 1esc in the 2nd chain from the hook and each chain across to the end. Note that this will give less stretch around the neckline.
Extended Single Crochet (esc) click here for a video tutorial
Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops to complete the stitch.
Extended Single Crochet 2 Together (esc2tog)
Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete the decrease stitch.
Notes
Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project.
Numbers at the end of a row or round indicate the number of stitches in that row or round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change.
Turning chains do not count as stitches.
Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated.
Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches.
Construction
The cardigan is made top down in the, turning at the end of each row. Work the yoke from the neck down, split the yoke to form the body and arm holes, work the body then sleeves.
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner - Intermediate
Skills Used
Knowledge of basic crochet stitches and terminology, working in rows and rounds, simple increases and decreases, chainless foundation rows (modification given) and Extended single crochet (UK extended double crochet) - see special stitches
FULL PATTERN
Once you have created your gauge swatch and confirmed you have met the required gauge, you can get started.
You will start by making the yoke of the cardigan, which is worked in a flat, unjoined circle. This uses a similar method you might use to start a crown-down beanie, only you will not join at the end of each row. For this design, you will alternate between increase rows and non-increase rows.
As you follow the instructions, you will notice that on each increase row you alternate between starting the row with an increase and finishing the row with one. This is important to ensure that the front opening of the cardigan says symmetrical. If you started all increase rows with an increase, then you would find one side looked quite different to the other!
Okay, let’s get started.
Yoke
Row 1 (WS): make 50(55, 55, 60, 60, 65, 65)fsc
Row 2 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throuhout), *1esc in next 4 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 60(66, 66, 72, 72, 78, 78) sts
Row 3: Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, turn
Row 4: Ch1, * 2esc in next st, 1esc in next 5 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 70(77, 77, 84, 84, 91, 91) sts
Row 5: As Row 3
Row 6: Ch1, *1esc in next 6 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 80(88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 104) sts
Row 7: As Row 3
Row 8: Ch1, *1 esc in next st, 1esc in next 7 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 90(99, 99, 108, 108, 117, 117) sts
Row 9: As Row 3
Row 10: Ch1, *1esc in next 8 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 100(110, 110, 120, 120, 130, 130) sts
Row 11: As Row 3
Row 12: Ch1, *2 esc in next st, 1esc in next 9 std; rep from * to end, turn. 110(121, 121, 132, 132, 143, 143) sts
Row 13: As Row 3
Row 14: Ch1, *1esc in next 10 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 120(132, 132, 144, 144, 156, 156) sts
Row 15: As Row 3
Row 16: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 11 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 130(143, 143, 156, 156, 169, 169) sts
Row 17: As Row 3
Row 18: Ch1, *1esc in next 12 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 140(154, 154, 168, 168, 182, 182) sts
Row 19: As Row 3
Row 20: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 13 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 150(165, 165, 180, 180, 195, 195) sts
Row 21: As Row 3
Row 22: Ch1, *1esc in next 14 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 160(176, 176, 192, 192, 208, 208) sts
Row 23: As Row 3
Row 24: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 15 sts; rep from * to end, turn 170(187, 187, 204, 204, 221, 221) sts
Row 25: As Row 3
Row 26: Ch1, *1esc in next 16 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn 180(198, 198, 216, 216, 234, 234) sts
Row 27: As Row 3
Row 28: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 17 sts; rep from * to end, turn 190(209, 209, 228, 228, 247, 247) sts
Row 29: As Row 3
For Size XS Only
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size S Only
Row 30: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size M Only
Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 220 sts
Rows 31 - 32: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size L Only
Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 240 sts
Rows 31 - 33: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size 1X Only
Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 240 sts
Row 31: As Row 3
Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 252 sts
Row 33: As Row 3
Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 264 sts
Row 35: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size 2X Only
Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 260 sts
Row 31: As Row 3
Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 273 sts
Row 33: As Row 3
Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 286 sts
Rows 35 - 37: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
For Size 3X Only
Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 260 sts
Row 31: As Row 3
Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 273 sts
Row 33: As Row 3
Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 286 sts
Row 35: As Row 3
Row 36: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 21 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 299 sts
Row 37: As Row 3
Row 38: Ch1, *1esc in next 22 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 312 sts
Rows 39-40: As Row 3
Continue to Part 2 - splitting the yoke
Total stitch count at the end of the yoke: 190(209, 220, 240, 264, 286, 312) sts
Split the yoke, make the body and hem
To split the yoke, you crochet the number of stitches instructed, which will form the front of the cardigan, make a chain for the underarm, skip the given number of stitches, (which will become the armhole), crochet across the next section, which will become the back, make a second underarm chain and skip the same number of stitches for the second armhole, then finish by crocheting across the other side of the front to the end.
Once the yoke is split, you will then continue to work the body of your cardigan in rows until it reaches the right length, then add the hem.
Note that there is no RS or WS until you split the yoke, so I recommend you allocate the one you prefer and add a stitch marker to identify it. For the purposes of the pattern, I have allocated the Body set-up row and the first round of the sleeves as RS Rows.
The WS and RS do matter when working the hem, cuffs and button band so what’s important is that you’re consistent.
Splitting the yoke
Body Set-up Row (RS): Ch1, 1esc in next 26(29, 31, 35, 40, 42, 46) sts, ch8(10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19), sk 40(43, 44, 46, 51, 56, 62) sts for the arm hole, 1esc in next 58(65, 70, 78, 82, 90, 96) sts, ch8(10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19), sk 40(43, 44, 46, 51, 56, 62) sts for the other arm hole, 1esc in each st to end, turn. 126(143, 158, 176, 192, 208, 226) sts (including ch)
You should have 48(53, 57, 60, 66, 73, 81) sts for each of the arm holes, including the underarm chains. I recommend checking this now as once you have finished the body, you won’t be able to adjust this without frogging it!
If it’s for you, try on your cardigan at this stage to check you are happy with how it fits around your chest and arms.
If the yoke is too short you can add some non-increase rows (Row 3 repeats) or remove them if it’s too long.
You can also alter the number of underarm chains used when you split the yoke. But do bear in mind, this will impact both the fit on the chest and the stitch count around the arms. This article goes into more detail about how you can make adjustments to a round yoke garment to customise the fit.
Body
Body Row 1 (WS): Ch1, 1esc in each st and ch to end, turn. 126(143, 158, 174, 190, 204, 220) sts
Body Row 2 (RS): Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, turn
Body Rows 3 - 36(36, 34, 34, 32, 32, 30): As Body Row 2 (ensuring you end on a RS row)
Continue to Hem
At this stage, you should have 65(66, 66, 67, 67, 69, 69) rows in total for the yoke and body.
For a longer body, add more repeats of Body Row 2 until the cardigan reaches your desired length. Note that the cardigan is designed to close around the bottom of the waist. If you add more rows so that it drops over the hips, you may find that the fronts do not meet. Do consider this when deciding if you want to alter the length.
Hem
The hem uses slip stitches so you may wish to go up to a 4.5 or 5mm crochet hook to work it, especially if you know your tension tightens when working them.
The garment pictured stuck with a 4mm hook and the hem gathers just a little at the bottom creating a touch of extra shape, which is the intention. Check you are happy with your tension as you work.
With WS facing, continue from the last row of the body;
Row 1 (WS): Ch1, ss in FLO of each st to end, turn
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1, ss in FLO of each st to end
Fasten off
The sleeves and cuffs
In this section we will create the sleeves, which are worked in rounds.
At the end of each round, you will slip stitch to the top of the first stitch and turn to start the next round. Remember that the ch1 used to start each round does not count as a stitch so make sure you ignore it.
You will work the first sleeve round into the yoke, starting in the centre of the back of the underarm chain, then make a 1 stitch decrease every 2 rounds until you reach the narrowest point (the cuff measurement). You will then work the remainder of the rounds without decreasing.
In a similar approach to the yoke, you will alternate the decrease between (near) the beginning and end of each decrease round. This ensures you will get a nice neat underarm seam.
Tip for working sleeves without gaps at the underarm:
On the first round of the sleeves, you will work an esc into each stitch on the armhole and the back of each of the underarm chains made when you split the yoke.
It can be quite easy to pick up extra stitches here. This is because the edges of the stitches made just before and after the underarm chain in the Body Set-up Row can look like additional stitches. When you skip these, it can create a gap at the underarm, so the natural tendency is to work into them, increasing your stitch count.
In order to avoid these gaps, without altering your stitch count, you can use a simple technique which I have outlined it below if you want to give it a try (it’s totally optional but does give a neater finish).
On the first round of the sleeve, when working into the last of the underarm chains, make an esc2tog, working both into the last underarm chain and the side of that pesky stitch from the Body Set-up Row.
When you have worked round the sleeve, you will repeat this on the other side, working the esc2tog into the side of the stitch from the Body Set-up Row and the first of the underarm chains.
Sleeves
Repeat on both sides
Join your yarn in the centre of the underarm chain, making sure you are working in the opposite direction to the last yoke round;
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 1esc in each ch and st round to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 48(53, 57, 60, 66, 73, 81) sts
Round 2 (dec): Ch1, 1esc in first st, esc2tog, 1esc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 47(52, 56, 59, 65, 72, 80) sts
Round 3: Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 4 (dec): Ch1, 1esc in each st to 3 from end, esc2tog, 1esc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn. 46(51, 55, 58, 64, 71, 79) sts
Round 5: As Round 3
Round 6 (dec): As Round 2
Rounds 7 - 36(40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40): Rep Rounds 3 - 6, ending on a decrease round. 30(33, 37, 40, 46, 53, 61) sts
Work 19(13, 17, 19, 19, 19, 19) more Round 3 reps (finishing on a RS round), giving a total of 55(57, 57, 59, 59, 59, 59) rounds.
Continue to Cuff
You can work fewer or more rounds to change the length of the sleeve as desired.
The sleeves are intended to be close fitting, but if you want a looser fitting sleeve at the forearm and wrist, you can stop decreasing sooner.
Cuff
As with the hem, the cuff uses slip stitches which reduce the stretch, so do go up a hook size for those if you need to.
Continuing from last round of the sleeve;
Round 1 (WS): Ch1, ss in FLO of each st around, ss to top of first ss, turn
Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss around, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 3: Ch1, ss in FLO of each st around, ss to top of first ss
Fasten off
Button band and finishing
In this final part, you will create the button band for your cardigan, block it, add the buttons and weave in the ends to finish.
Adding buttons is optional, and if you choose not to, you can just skip the buttonhole row, replacing it with a row of single crochet.
Button band
As with the hem, monitor your progress on the button band to ensure you achieve an even tension and do not get any gathering or ruffling up the front.
You will start by working a row of slip stitches into the row-ends up the front opening of your cardigan (including the row-ends of the hem). This is what will set the tension for the rest of the button band.
I recommend working 5 slip stitches into every 4 row-ends to achieve a band which lies flush with the front of the cardigan. However, you can adjust this to suit your crochet style. This is why you will not see a stitch count in this section. Make sure you have the same number of stitches on each side of your cardigan.
Once again you may wish to go up a hook size when working slip stitch rows to ensure you maintain an even tension.
First side - button band
With the RS facing, join your yarn to the front of the cardigan, on the side you wish to add the buttons. This may be at the top or the bottom of the front opening, depending on your preference and handedness.
Row 1 (RS): Ch1, evenly ss into the row-ends along the front opening, turn
Row 2 (WS): Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each ss to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss to end, turn
Row 4: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn
Rows 5 - 6: As Row 4
Row 7: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn
Row 8: Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each st to end
Fasten off
Second Side - Buttonhole band
Decide where you would like to place your buttons and add a stitch marker to the unworked side of the front opening to indicate where each of the buttonholes should be placed. Move these markers up as you work.
With RS facing, join your yarn to the front of the cardigan opening. Again, this may be at the top or the bottom depending on which side you worked first.
Row 1 (RS): Ch1, evenly ss into the row-ends along the front opening, turn
Row 2 (WS): Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each ss to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in FLO each ss to end, turn
Row 4 - Buttonhole Row: Ch1, *1sc in each st to buttonhole marker, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1sc in next st; rep from * up to and including the last buttonhole, then work 1sc into each of the remaining sts after the final buttonhole to end, turn
Note that depending on the size of your buttons, you may wish to chain and skip more or fewer stitches. At this point, check that your buttons just fit through the hole you created. There should be just enough space for the buttons so that they remain fastened. If there is too much space, I recommend reducing the size of the buttonhole (work fewer chains), so your buttons don’t pop open when worn.
As you work the buttonholes, you may wish to transfer your markers to the corresponding stitch on the opposite button band to mark where the buttons will be attached. Leave these markers in place whilst blocking (and block before attaching buttons).
Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in each st and ch to end, turn
Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn
Row 7: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn
Row 8: Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each st to end
Fasten off
Finishing
I recommend wet blocking, or steam blocking your cardigan to get the best out of it. This will flatten out any curl you may find on the button band and really show off the stitch pattern.
You can learn more about blocking, including how to do it, here.
Checking that the button markers are still aligned with the buttonholes after blocking and sew on your buttons.
Weave in all ends to finish
